@font-face{font-family:"Inclusive Sans";font-style:italic;font-weight:400;font-display:swap;src:url("fonts/inclusive-sans-400-italic.woff2") format("woff2")}
@font-face{font-family:"Inclusive Sans";font-style:normal;font-weight:400;font-display:swap;src:url("fonts/inclusive-sans-400.woff2") format("woff2")}
@font-face{font-family:"Inclusive Sans";font-style:normal;font-weight:700;font-display:swap;src:url("fonts/inclusive-sans-700.woff2") format("woff2")}
@font-face{font-family:"Geologica";font-style:normal;font-weight:100 900;font-display:optional;src:url("fonts/geologica-800.woff2") format("woff2")}
@font-face{font-family:"Geologica Fallback Arial";font-style:normal;font-weight:100 600;src:local("Arial"),local("ArialMT"),local("Arimo"),local("Arimo-Regular");size-adjust:107.76%;ascent-override:90.48%;descent-override:25.52%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
@font-face{font-family:"Geologica Fallback Arial";font-style:normal;font-weight:601 750;src:local("Arial Bold"),local("Arial-BoldMT"),local("Arimo Bold"),local("Arimo-Bold");size-adjust:102.99%;ascent-override:94.67%;descent-override:26.70%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
@font-face{font-family:"Geologica Fallback Arial";font-style:normal;font-weight:751 900;src:local("Arial Bold"),local("Arial-BoldMT"),local("Arimo Bold"),local("Arimo-Bold");size-adjust:105.12%;ascent-override:92.75%;descent-override:26.16%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
@font-face{font-family:"Geologica Fallback DejaVu";font-style:normal;font-weight:100 600;src:local("DejaVu Sans"),local("DejaVuSans");size-adjust:95.87%;ascent-override:101.70%;descent-override:28.68%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
@font-face{font-family:"Geologica Fallback DejaVu";font-style:normal;font-weight:601 750;src:local("DejaVu Sans Bold"),local("DejaVuSans-Bold");size-adjust:87.30%;ascent-override:111.68%;descent-override:31.50%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
@font-face{font-family:"Geologica Fallback DejaVu";font-style:normal;font-weight:751 900;src:local("DejaVu Sans Bold"),local("DejaVuSans-Bold");size-adjust:88.25%;ascent-override:110.48%;descent-override:31.16%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
@font-face{font-family:"Inclusive Sans Fallback Arial";font-style:normal;font-weight:400;src:local("Arial"),local("ArialMT"),local("Arimo"),local("Arimo-Regular");size-adjust:107.53%;ascent-override:88.35%;descent-override:23.25%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
@font-face{font-family:"Inclusive Sans Fallback Arial";font-style:normal;font-weight:700;src:local("Arial Bold"),local("Arial-BoldMT"),local("Arimo Bold"),local("Arimo-Bold");size-adjust:104.43%;ascent-override:90.97%;descent-override:23.94%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
@font-face{font-family:"Inclusive Sans Fallback DejaVu";font-style:normal;font-weight:400;src:local("DejaVu Sans"),local("DejaVuSans");size-adjust:94.36%;ascent-override:100.67%;descent-override:26.49%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
@font-face{font-family:"Inclusive Sans Fallback DejaVu";font-style:normal;font-weight:700;src:local("DejaVu Sans Bold"),local("DejaVuSans-Bold");size-adjust:88.06%;ascent-override:107.88%;descent-override:28.39%;line-gap-override:0.00%}
:root{--paper:#FFFFFF;--paper-2:#F1F2F2;--ink:#17191B;--ink-2:#4A5155;--dim:#5E6569;--rule:#BFC4C7;--on-ink:#FFFFFF;--on-ink-2:#C9CDCF;--disp:"Geologica","Geologica Fallback Arial","Geologica Fallback DejaVu","Helvetica Neue",Arial,sans-serif;--body:"Inclusive Sans","Inclusive Sans Fallback Arial","Inclusive Sans Fallback DejaVu","Helvetica Neue",Arial,sans-serif;--tempo-1:150ms;--tempo-2:350ms;--tempo-3:850ms;--curve:cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1);--curve-wipe:cubic-bezier(.76,0,.18,1);--gutter:174px}
*{box-sizing:border-box;margin:0;padding:0}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
body{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:400 18px/1.65 var(--body);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:3px;text-decoration-thickness:1px}
a:hover{text-decoration-thickness:2px}
:focus-visible{outline:3px solid currentColor;outline-offset:3px}
svg{display:block}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-999px;top:0;background:var(--ink);color:var(--on-ink);padding:8px 12px;z-index:9}
.skip:focus{left:8px;top:8px}
.split{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1fr);min-height:100vh}
.ink,.index{min-width:0}
.vh{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0 0 0 0);white-space:nowrap}
.ink{position:relative;isolation:isolate;color:var(--on-ink);padding:30px 56px 40px;display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.ink::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;background:var(--ink);transform-origin:0 50%;animation:wipe var(--tempo-3) var(--curve-wipe) both}
@keyframes wipe{from{transform:scaleX(0)}}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;text-decoration:none;font:800 22px/1 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.01em;align-self:flex-start}
.brand svg,.brand img{width:40px;height:40px}
.ink h1{margin-top:28px;font:800 clamp(36px,3.7vw,54px)/.98 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.03em}
.ink h1 span{display:block}
.lead{margin-top:20px;font-size:19px;line-height:1.5;max-width:28em}
.intents{list-style:none;margin-top:20px;border-top:1px solid var(--on-ink-2);counter-reset:intent}
.intent{counter-increment:intent;display:grid;grid-template-columns:2.4em minmax(0,1fr);align-items:baseline;padding:8px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink-2);animation:rise .55s var(--curve) both;animation-delay:calc(var(--i)*70ms + 380ms)}
.intent::before{content:counter(intent,decimal-leading-zero);font:500 14px/1 var(--disp);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;color:var(--on-ink-2)}
.intent a{font:700 21px/1.25 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.015em}
.plate{margin:0;display:block}
.plate img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}
.plate figcaption{font:500 14px/1.4 var(--disp);color:var(--ink-2);padding:8px 0 0}
.plate.mount{margin-top:22px}
.plate.mount img{height:224px;object-fit:cover;border:1px solid var(--on-ink-2)}
.plate.mount figcaption{color:var(--on-ink-2);padding-top:10px}
.plate.mount figcaption b{font:700 14px/1.4 var(--disp);color:var(--on-ink)}
.index{padding:22px 56px 34px 64px;display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px 14px;list-style:none;font:500 14px/1.3 var(--disp);padding-bottom:16px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink)}
.nav a{text-decoration:none;display:inline-block;padding:7px 0 5px;border-bottom:2px solid transparent;transition:border-color var(--tempo-1)}
.nav a:hover,.nav a[aria-current]{border-bottom-color:currentColor}
.index h2{margin-top:26px;font:800 30px/1.1 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.02em}
.index .lede{margin-top:6px;font-size:17px;line-height:1.5;color:var(--ink-2)}
.stamp{margin-top:6px;font:500 16px/1.3 var(--disp);color:var(--ink-2);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.stamp time{color:var(--ink)}
.filter{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:8px;margin-top:18px}
html:not(.js) .filter{display:none}
.filter output{margin-left:auto;font:400 17px/1 var(--body);color:var(--ink-2);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.btn{position:relative;isolation:isolate;overflow:hidden;display:inline-block;font:500 15px/1 var(--disp);color:var(--ink);background:transparent;border:1px solid var(--ink);border-radius:0;padding:10px 14px;cursor:pointer;text-decoration:none;transition:color var(--tempo-2) var(--curve)}
.btn::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;background:var(--ink);transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:0 50%;transition:transform var(--tempo-2) var(--curve)}
.btn:hover{color:var(--on-ink)}
.btn:hover::before{transform:scaleX(1)}
.btn-fill,.btn[aria-pressed="true"]{background:var(--ink);color:var(--on-ink)}
.filter .btn{padding:9px 11px}
.entries{list-style:none;margin-top:16px;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);counter-reset:spa}
.entry{counter-increment:spa;position:relative;display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 9ch;gap:0 16px;align-items:baseline;padding:11px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);transition:color var(--tempo-2),background var(--tempo-2);animation:rise .55s var(--curve) both;animation-delay:calc(var(--i)*70ms + 320ms)}
@keyframes rise{from{opacity:0;transform:translateY(10px)}}
.entry::before{content:counter(spa,decimal-leading-zero);position:absolute;left:-44px;top:14px;font:500 14px/1 var(--disp);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;color:var(--ink-2)}
.entry .spa{font:700 19px/1.3 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.01em;margin-right:.6em}
.entry .spa a{text-decoration:none}
.entry .spa a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.entry .cls{font-size:17px;line-height:1.3;color:var(--ink-2)}
.entry .temp{font:700 18px/1.3 var(--disp);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;text-align:right;white-space:nowrap}
.entry.here{background:var(--ink);color:var(--on-ink);margin:0 -16px;padding:12px 16px 13px;border-bottom-color:var(--ink)}
.entry.here::before{left:-28px;top:15px}
.entry.here .cls{color:var(--on-ink-2)}
.entry.here .tag{grid-column:1/-1;font:700 13px/1.35 var(--disp);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--on-ink-2);margin-bottom:7px}
.entry.off,.entry.off .cls,.entry.off .temp{color:var(--dim)}
.entry.here.off{background:transparent;color:var(--dim)}
.entry.here.off .tag{color:var(--dim)}
.all{display:inline-block;margin-top:14px;font:700 17px/1.3 var(--disp)}
.lake{margin-top:auto;padding-top:18px;border-top:1px solid var(--ink);display:grid;grid-template-columns:150px minmax(0,1fr);gap:0 22px;align-items:center;animation:rise .55s var(--curve) .8s both}
.lake svg{width:100%;height:auto}
.lake h3{font:700 20px/1.2 var(--disp)}
.lake p{margin-top:4px;font-size:17px;line-height:1.45;color:var(--ink-2)}
.lake a{font:700 16px/1.3 var(--disp);display:inline-block;margin-top:6px}
.sheet{max-width:1180px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 56px}
section{padding:64px 0 56px;border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}
.section-head{display:grid;grid-template-columns:150px minmax(0,1fr);gap:0 24px;margin-bottom:30px;align-items:baseline}
.section-head.stack{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:8px}
.section-head .n{font:500 14px/1 var(--disp);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2)}
h2.t{font:800 clamp(28px,3vw,40px)/1.1 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.02em}
.section-body{margin-left:var(--gutter);max-width:36em}
.section-body p+p{margin-top:1em}
.row-note{margin:28px 0 0 var(--gutter);max-width:44em;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink)}
.row-note .line{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;padding:12px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);font:700 18px/1.3 var(--disp)}
.row-note .line span{font:400 17px/1.3 var(--body);color:var(--ink-2)}
.row-note p{padding:16px 0 18px;max-width:34em}
.more{margin:22px 0 0 var(--gutter);font:700 17px/1.3 var(--disp)}
.cures{margin-left:var(--gutter);list-style:none;border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}
.cures li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:240px minmax(0,1fr);gap:24px;padding:20px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.cures b{font:700 22px/1.2 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.01em}
.cures b a{text-decoration:none}
.cures b a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.cures span{max-width:30em}
.around{margin-left:var(--gutter);display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}
.spot{padding-right:24px}
.spot+.spot{padding-left:24px;border-left:1px solid var(--rule)}
.spot svg{width:100%;height:96px;margin-bottom:14px}
.spot h3{font:700 22px/1.2 var(--disp);margin-bottom:8px}
.spot h3 a{text-decoration:none}
.spot h3 a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.spot p{font-size:17.5px;line-height:1.55}
.hotel{margin-left:var(--gutter);display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 300px;gap:40px;align-items:start}
.hotel svg{width:100%;height:auto;background:var(--ink);color:var(--on-ink);padding:10px}
.hotel p+p{margin-top:1em}
.news{margin-left:var(--gutter);list-style:none;border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}
.news li{padding:18px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);font:700 21px/1.3 var(--disp);display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}
.news li span{font:400 17px/1.5 var(--body);color:var(--ink-2);white-space:nowrap;text-align:right}
.news time{display:block;font-size:15px;color:var(--ink-2)}
.news a{text-decoration:none}
.news a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.method{margin:56px 0 0 var(--gutter);max-width:44em;display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto minmax(0,1fr);gap:0 18px;align-items:start;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:16px}
.method svg{width:34px;height:34px;margin-top:4px}
.method h3{font:700 15px/1.3 var(--disp);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:6px}
.method p{font-size:17px;line-height:1.6;color:var(--ink-2);padding-top:10px;border-top:1px dotted var(--ink)}
.method p+p{border-top:0;padding-top:0;margin-top:.7em}
.footer-bar{margin-top:56px;padding:34px 0 48px;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr auto;gap:24px;align-items:end;font-size:17px}
.footer-bar ul{list-style:none;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px 24px;margin-bottom:14px;font:500 17px/1.3 var(--disp)}
.footer-bar ul a{text-decoration:none;display:inline-block;padding:5px 0}
.footer-bar ul a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.footer-bar .indip{margin-top:8px;font-size:15px;line-height:1.45;color:var(--ink-2);max-width:40em}
.parere{margin:36px 0 40px var(--gutter);max-width:44em;font:500 16px/1.45 var(--disp);color:var(--ink-2)}
.topbar{display:none}
.menu summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;font:700 15px/1 var(--disp);padding:9px 12px;border:1px solid var(--on-ink-2)}
.menu summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.menu[open] summary{background:var(--on-ink);color:var(--ink);border-color:var(--on-ink)}
.menu ul{list-style:none;position:absolute;left:0;right:0;top:100%;background:var(--ink);padding:6px 20px 14px;border-top:1px solid var(--ink-2)}
.menu li a{display:block;padding:10px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink-2);font:500 17px/1.3 var(--disp);text-decoration:none}
.ledger{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.ledger th{text-align:left;font:700 13px/1 var(--disp);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);padding:12px 12px 10px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink)}
.ledger td{padding:11px 12px 11px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);vertical-align:baseline}
.ledger td.num{text-align:right;font:700 18px/1.3 var(--disp);white-space:nowrap}
.ledger .ord{width:3ch;font:500 14px/1 var(--disp);color:var(--ink-2)}
.ledger tr.off td{color:var(--dim)}
.faq{border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}
.faq details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.faq summary{list-style:none;cursor:pointer;display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 28px;align-items:center;gap:16px;padding:16px 0}
.faq summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.faq summary h3{font:700 20px/1.3 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.01em;margin:0}
.faq summary::after{content:"";width:12px;height:12px;border-right:2px solid var(--ink);border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink);transform:rotate(45deg);justify-self:center;transition:transform var(--tempo-1)}
.faq details[open] summary::after{transform:rotate(-135deg)}
.faq .answer{padding:0 44px 18px 0;max-width:40em;color:var(--ink-2)}
.faq .answer p+p{margin-top:.8em}
.teasers{list-style:none;border-top:2px solid var(--ink)}
.teasers li{padding:18px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
.teasers .kicker{display:block;font:500 13px/1 var(--disp);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:8px}
.teasers a{font:700 21px/1.3 var(--disp);text-decoration:none}
.teasers a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.teasers p{margin-top:6px;color:var(--ink-2);max-width:36em}
.mast{position:relative;isolation:isolate;color:var(--on-ink);padding:22px 56px}
.mast::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-1;background:var(--ink);transform-origin:0 50%;animation:wipe var(--tempo-3) var(--curve-wipe) both}
.mast .sheet{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px 32px;padding:0}
.mast .nav{padding-bottom:0;border-bottom:0;font-size:15px}
.head{padding:48px 0 40px;border-bottom:2px solid var(--ink);display:grid;grid-template-columns:150px minmax(0,1fr);gap:0 24px;align-items:start}
.head .n{font:500 14px/1 var(--disp);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-2);padding-top:14px}
.head h1{font:800 clamp(34px,3.6vw,52px)/1.04 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.03em;max-width:18em;animation:rise .55s var(--curve) .2s both}
.head .lede{margin-top:18px;font-size:20px;line-height:1.5;max-width:32em;color:var(--ink-2);animation:rise .55s var(--curve) .32s both}
.head .stamp{margin-top:16px;animation:rise .55s var(--curve) .4s both}
.crumbs{list-style:none;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px 10px;font:500 14px/1.3 var(--disp);color:var(--ink-2);padding:14px 0 0}
.crumbs li+li::before{content:"/";padding-right:10px;color:var(--rule)}
.crumbs a{text-decoration:none}
.crumbs a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.article{margin-left:var(--gutter);max-width:38em;padding:36px 0 0;counter-reset:part}
.article>p,.article>ul,.article>ol,.article>blockquote{margin-bottom:1.1em}
.article>ul,.article>ol{padding-left:1.3em}
.article li+li{margin-top:.35em}
.article h2{counter-increment:part;position:relative;margin:2.2em 0 .7em;font:800 clamp(24px,2.4vw,32px)/1.12 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.02em}
.article h2::before{content:counter(part,decimal-leading-zero);position:absolute;left:calc(-1 * var(--gutter));top:.35em;font:500 14px/1 var(--disp);letter-spacing:.14em;color:var(--ink-2)}
.article h3{margin:1.6em 0 .5em;font:700 21px/1.25 var(--disp);letter-spacing:-.01em}
.article blockquote{padding-left:18px;border-left:2px solid var(--ink);color:var(--ink-2);max-width:32em}
.article .ledger{margin:1.4em 0 1.6em;font-size:17px;display:block;overflow-x:auto;max-width:100%}
.article .ledger td.num{white-space:normal;text-align:left;font:500 17px/1.45 var(--disp)}
.register .ledger th{letter-spacing:.06em;padding-right:10px}
.register .ledger td{padding-right:10px}
.register .ledger{background:linear-gradient(to right,var(--paper) 40%,rgb(255 255 255/0)) left/32px 100% no-repeat local,linear-gradient(to left,var(--paper) 40%,rgb(255 255 255/0)) right/32px 100% no-repeat local,linear-gradient(to right,rgb(23 25 27/.22),rgb(23 25 27/0)) left/14px 100% no-repeat scroll,linear-gradient(to left,rgb(23 25 27/.22),rgb(23 25 27/0)) right/14px 100% no-repeat scroll}
@media (min-width:901px){main.sheet{container-type:inline-size}.article .register{width:max-content;max-width:calc(100cqw - var(--gutter))}}
.article .method{margin:0 0 2em}
.article .method h3{margin:0 0 6px;font:700 15px/1.3 var(--disp);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase}
.article .plate{margin:1.6em 0 1.8em}
.article .plate img{border:1px solid var(--rule)}
.article .plate svg{width:100%;height:auto}
.article .faq{margin-top:1em}
.article .faq summary h3{margin:0}
.wide{margin-left:var(--gutter)}
.contents{margin:28px 0 0 var(--gutter);max-width:38em;list-style:none;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);counter-reset:toc;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:0 24px}
.contents li{counter-increment:toc;display:grid;grid-template-columns:2.4em minmax(0,1fr);align-items:baseline;padding:8px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);font:500 16px/1.3 var(--disp)}
.contents li::before{content:counter(toc,decimal-leading-zero);font-size:13px;color:var(--ink-2)}
.contents a{text-decoration:none}
.contents a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.sources{margin:48px 0 0 var(--gutter);max-width:44em;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:14px}
.sources h2{font:700 15px/1.3 var(--disp);letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:8px}
.sources ol{padding-left:1.3em;font-size:16px;color:var(--ink-2)}
.sources li+li{margin-top:.3em}
.sources li span{color:var(--ink)}
.embed{margin:1.4em 0 1.8em;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:12px}
.embed h3{margin:0 0 .4em}
.embed pre{margin:0;min-height:92px;font:14px/1.45 ui-monospace,Menlo,Consolas,monospace;color:var(--ink);background:var(--paper-2);border:1px solid var(--rule);padding:10px;white-space:pre-wrap;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.embed code{font:inherit;user-select:all}
.embed p{font-size:16px;color:var(--ink-2);margin-top:.5em}
.map{margin:1.4em 0 1.8em}
.map svg{width:100%;height:auto}
.map .lbl{font:700 11px var(--disp);fill:var(--ink)}
.map .lbl.sm{font-weight:500;fill:var(--ink-2)}
.map .pt{fill:var(--ink)}
.map .pt.here{fill:var(--paper);stroke:var(--ink);stroke-width:2.5}
.map .border{fill:none;stroke:var(--ink);stroke-width:1.4}
.map .out{fill:var(--paper-2)}
.map .reg{fill:var(--paper)}
.map .water{fill:var(--on-ink-2)}
.map .prov{fill:none;stroke:var(--rule);stroke-width:.8;stroke-dasharray:3 2}
.map .edge{fill:none;stroke:var(--ink);stroke-width:1.1;stroke-linejoin:round}
.map .pn{font:500 10px var(--disp);letter-spacing:.12em;fill:var(--ink-2)}
.map .lk{font:italic 500 10px var(--disp);fill:var(--ink-2)}
.map .city{fill:var(--ink-2)}
.posts{margin-left:var(--gutter);max-width:44em;padding-top:28px}
.sig{margin-left:var(--gutter);max-width:38em;padding:28px 0 0;font-size:17px;color:var(--ink-2)}
@media (max-width:1100px){.hotel{grid-template-columns:1fr}.around{grid-template-columns:1fr}.spot+.spot{border-left:0;padding-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--rule);margin-top:20px;padding-top:20px}}
@media (max-width:900px){
.split{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr);min-height:0}
.ledger{display:block;overflow-x:auto;max-width:100%}
.ink{min-height:0;padding:8px 20px 32px}
.ink h1{margin-top:22px;font-size:clamp(34px,9vw,44px)}
.lead{margin-top:16px;font-size:17px}
.intents{margin-top:16px}
.intent{grid-template-columns:2.2em minmax(0,1fr);padding:7px 0}
.intent a{font-size:18px}
.plate.mount{margin-top:16px}
.plate.mount img{height:190px}
.index{padding:18px 20px 32px 56px}
.index h2{margin-top:20px}
.entry{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) auto}
.entry::before{left:-36px}
.entry.here{margin:0 -12px;padding:12px 12px 13px}
.entry.here::before{left:-24px}
.lake{margin-top:28px;grid-template-columns:110px minmax(0,1fr)}
.sheet{padding:0 20px}
section{padding:44px 0 40px}
.section-head{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:6px}
.section-body,.row-note,.more,.cures,.around,.hotel,.news,.method,.parere,.article,.wide,.contents,.sources,.posts,.sig{margin-left:0}
.contents{grid-template-columns:1fr}
.article h2::before{position:static;display:block;margin-bottom:6px}
.cures li{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:6px}
.news li{flex-direction:column;gap:4px}.news li span{text-align:left}
.footer-bar{grid-template-columns:1fr}
html{scroll-padding-top:72px}
.topbar{display:flex;position:sticky;top:0;z-index:5;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:10px 20px;background:var(--ink);color:var(--on-ink);border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink-2)}
.topbar .brand{font-size:19px}
.topbar .brand svg,.topbar .brand img{width:32px;height:32px}
.ink .brand,.index nav,.mast{display:none}
.head{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:8px;padding:32px 0 28px}
.head .n{padding-top:0}
.faq summary h3{font-size:18px}
.faq .answer{padding-right:0}
}
@media (max-width:340px){.entry .cls{font-size:15px}}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.ink::before,.mast::before,.entry,.intent,.lake,.head h1,.head .lede,.head .stamp{animation:none}.entry,.btn,.btn::before,.nav a,.faq summary::after{transition:none}}